Thursday, June 11
Alligator River Anchorage (South Lake) – Elizabeth City, NC
31.67 nm 6.25 hours underway
We pulled up anchor with some feelings of dread—another slalom through crab pots ahead of us, and the Albemarle Sound looming just after. It’s one of those stretches on the Loop that earns a reputation, and not the good kind. Our friends Kent & Maryse aboard Aquatix had already taken a beating crossing it, and their story was fresh in our minds.
We had been given some advice from Robert Creech of The Front Porch in Southport: only cross the Albemarle with winds out of the south and under 10 mph. On paper, we had just that. Favorable winds, manageable forecast—and an early departure planned to beat the afternoon build.
Or so we thought.
The winds leaned a little more westerly than predicted, which translated into a few more rolls than we would have preferred. Not unmanageable, but enough to keep us on edge. Still, compared to the stories we’d heard, we felt lucky.
As you leave the Sound, you pass the Coast Guard station and make your way into Elizabeth City—a well-known stop for Loopers staging for the Dismal Swamp. The town offers several free docks, which is always a welcome sight, but availability can be hit or miss.
But then we were told to call the Rose Buddies.
One quick call later, and just like that, everything changed. “Plenty of space,” we were told. Just like that, stress turned into relief.
Elizabeth City proudly calls itself the “Harbor of Hospitality,” and it lives up to the name. The Rose Buddies—local volunteers—have been welcoming cruisers since 1983. The tradition began with two gentlemen hosting wine and cheese gatherings for visiting boaters. One clipped roses from his garden, the other handled refreshments. While the socials have faded over time, some traditions remain.
Today, the Rose Buddies still greet arriving boats, help with lines, and present a rose to each woman aboard. Our greeter happened to be from Cleveland, and within minutes Heather had discovered mutual connections. It’s amazing how often the world feels small on the Loop.
We weren’t alone on the docks. Two other Looper boats had already tied up—Mark & April aboard Funny Farm, and Deb & Chris aboard Bucket List. Mark & April shared one of the more memorable stories we’ve heard: they had only met twice in person before moving onto a boat together. Talk about a leap of faith.
Once settled, we made a beeline for 7 Sounds Brewing. With the heat of the day, the air conditioning alone felt worth the trip. With no power at the free docks, we try to limit generator use to overnight, so a cool indoor break was exactly what we needed. Kevin opted for a flight, while Heather kept it light with a seltzer.
From there, we wandered over to 2 Souls Wine Bar. Another perk of the Rose Buddies program—each boat receives two tokens that can be used for small treats at local businesses. We cashed one in for a “mini-cutarie,” which paired nicely with Heather’s glass of bubbles and Kevin’s flight of two whites and a Grenache.
Plans had already formed to meet up with the other boats for dinner at Hoppin’ Johnz, so we made a quick stop at Ghost Harbor Brewing to pass the time. As always, the best part of these stops is the stories—where people started, where they’re headed, and everything in between.
At dinner, we learned that Bucket List would be “crossing their wake” (crossing your wake refers to completing the Loop and being back where you started) in Manistee. As Harbor Hosts in Manistee, we’re already looking forward to being there to welcome them in.
And just when we thought the day couldn’t get any more interesting, it did.
Walking back after dinner, we stumbled upon a movie shoot from Dubai in progress. Naturally. Heather and Deb were recruited to do a few background “walk-throughs” in Pailin’s Alley, complete with signed waivers and multiple takes. Will the footage ever see the light of day? Who knows. But it’s a story we’ll be telling for a long time.
Tomorrow – the Dismal Swamp.
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